Matthew Koumis 孔天喜 Reflections on the piano: Tianmu

Showing posts with label Tianmu. Show all posts

Saturday, 20 August 2022

Supermarkets and fruit and veg markets in Tianmu

FOOD SHOPPING in Tianmu

If you want to find food that reminds you of home, it can be a bit frustrating eating out, at the other side of the planet. The chocolate just isn't so chocolatey. Bacon, eggs, beans and toast? You'll be lucky! You might do better to buy the ingredients, and just learn to fix your fix at home.

1. SUPERMARKETS
1. If you are missing muesli, chocolate spread and other western comfort foods:

Expat-friendly Mia C'bon. No. 3號, Tianmu W Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111. Despite the ridiculous name (previously Jasons), nice food. Sogo and Takashimaya department stores both have supermarkets in the basement, which include many foreign imports.

Carrefour, has many imports, expat friendly, two locations in Tianmu, see Googlemaps.

Hummus: Hagar's Kitchen Mediterranean Food is the only shop I found selling hummus. Tiny shop very close to Shidong market. No. 59號, Shidong Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

PX Mart (photo) is the most popular supermarket chain, and has a branch near you. Very good quality fresh fruit and veg. Jars, tins, packets of produce are written in Mandarin only, usually.

Excellent fresh fruit/veg at PX Mart

2. MARKETS At the famous Shidong market, in Tianmu, fresh food quality control is generally great, the price may be eye-watering. For a cheaper experience of buying fresh fruit and veg in the street markets, perhaps it needs a small amount of cunning. As a foreigner who doesn't speak good Mandarin, there is a small risk of being overcharged. I had good results at the market around Lane 8 Tianmu E Road.

If you want to support the smaller sellers, and to enjoy possibly fresher produce, free from wasteful packaging, this strategy worked for me.

My strategy for market shoppping

1. Try any stall that catches your eye, do a modest 'test' order (say 4 oranges, 4 tomatoes), see if the price/quality/friendliness seems reasonable. If not, try another.

2. Meanwhile also visit a supermarket like PX Mart supermarket, so you can check / compare price and quality. If you still prefer the market...

3. Once you have established a connection at the market (they remember your face), increase the size of your order. Go at the same time of day, because some stalls have different staff on shifts.

4. Advanced: find two different market stalls you like. One day one will be closed, or sold out of the thing you want.

Thursday, 18 August 2022

Toasted Sandwich places in Tianmu

1. Probably the best toasted sandwiches in Tianmu are here Cafe Rue

No. 2號, Lane 35, Section 6, Zhongshan N Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111, seating indoors

and at their sister branch (outdoor seating only only, close to lovely river walk) at Cafe Ruelle No. 31-1號, Section 2, Zhicheng Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111. Warning: service has sometimes been very poor at both branches, perhaps it has improved. If you are not in a hurry and happy to focus on the sandwich, then it's a pleasure. Try the iced Sicilian coffee (with lemon), surprisingly acceptable and refreshing.

2. Lutetia does a Panini set (two pleasant venues in Tianmu, both recommended, check googlemaps for address).

3. Best service, and good toasted sandwiches here at Love Happiness (photo) sandwich shop. No. 3之67號, Tianmu W Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111. Conveniently situated at the upper corner of the Square near TAS, a few doors along from Le Sommelier wine shop.

4. 富玉洋行 Fullers & Co. Bakery is worth a visit for an upscale club sandwich and a cake. 111, Taipei City, Shilin District, Lane 38, Tianyu St, 11之3號1樓

5. Oppposite is JB Diners (menu here) who offer Pastrami Reuben sandwich for $360 (!!), together with many western staples. (Apologies, my blog-dedication does not extend as far as paying $360 for a sandwich).

Wednesday, 17 August 2022

Visiting a hot spring / onsen around Tianmu

I recommend this one

Emperor Spa

No. 42-1號, Lane 402, Xingyi Rd, Beitou District, Taipei City, 112

There are about 5 different pools plus steam room and sauna.

Etiquette

Bathing is done naked, which may be a shock the first time! Men and women have separate areas. Clothes into lockers, require loose change. Shower and soap down very thoroughly. Recommended not to stay in a hot pool for too long, refresh yourself by taking a cold dip in between the hot tubs. You will feel super-relaxed afterwards (and your towel will smell of sulphur).

Tuesday, 16 August 2022

Pizza in Tianmu

We only have one enthusiastic recommendation for eating inside:

1. Il Vicino

Eat-in or takeway, cosy place. No. 59號, Section 7, Zhongshan N Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

111台北市士林區中山北路七段59號

2. Faust Pizza is good for takeaway, few tables outside, regular clientele among westerners and locals.

No. 20號, Section 2, Zhicheng Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

Monday, 15 August 2022

Best Cake Shops in Tianmu

(see also Cafes in Tianmu)

Our local favourites

1. ISM. Excellent quality cakes. Take-away

No. 21-4號, Lane 8, Tianmu E Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

2. Paris 15eme

This challengingly named cake shop is found inside Takashimaya department store, staying on the ground floor (not downstairs toward the food court), on the left side (closer to the baseball stadium).

A refined cake shop, very suitable for high end adult treats.

3. Wendels German bakery, close to Sogo / Zhishan MRT. Reliably good cakes and bakery items such as scones. Good choice for birthday cakes.

No. 5號, Dexing W Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111.

4. To go further afield, try highly rated Flugel Studio for amazing cakes, BUT best avoided at weekends when it becomes over-crowded by the Instagram set. Near Taipei Power MRT. 106, Taipei City, Da’an District, Lane 34, Section 1, Xinhai Rd, 3號一樓

Indian / Malaysian food in Tianmu

For authentic flavour we would recommend Namaste, this little shack at Shida night market, run by a man from Sikkim, north India. Portions were hearty, even too large. Outdoor seating only. Score of 5/5 on googlemaps.

No. 13號, Longquan St, Da’an District, Taipei City, 106

Chicken curry received the approval of the missus

Cooking Indian food

I would recommend a visit to Trinity Indian Store. This shop is great for Indian ingredients in nearby Shilin. It is sooo easy to cook a delicious curry, as soon as you have some spices.

111台北市士林區中山北路五段535號

No. 535號, Section 5, Zhongshan N Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

The supermarket chain PX Mart started selling Curry Leaves, fresh, organic.

For Indian food

A lot of expats (not me) recommend the following two Indian restaurants in Tianmu

The Spice Shop; Saffron Fine Indian Cuisine.The tandoori chicken and naan is decent (and expensive), the vibe is convivial and expat-friendly.

For Malaysian food

try Mr Chee Kopitiam Premium, next to Zhishan MRT station. No. 150號, Fuhua Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111031

Heading South

If you visit the southern city of Tainan you are in luck: a lot of cheap Indian restaurants are kept in business by all the foreign postgraduate students there.

Drinking (alcohol) in Tianmu and beyond

1. Hangout Cocktail Bar, recently opened to very good reviews.

111, Taipei City, Shilin District, 中山北路六段338號

2. To sit outside for a homely glass of wine, at the big square just north of TAS. (bring mosquito repellent, no seating indoors).

Le Sommelier (website here)

3-81號面向天玉街38巷號 1 樓

3. Lili Restaurant and Bar

Good quality Tianmu restaurant with bar, comfortable indoor seating with tasteful arty interior.

Zhongshan North Road section 6 no. 760, Taipei City, 中山北路六段760號

4. Buy whisky from Taiwan's award winning Kavalan

111, Taipei City, Shilin District, 中山北路六段734號

5. For a swanky evening out, with cocktails further afield:

Closet Restaurant (pricey)

No. 15號, Lane 101, Section 4, Zhongxiao E Rd, Da’an District, Taipei City, 106

Thanks to Taipei Expats blog (click here)for the tip and photo

6. Mellow Fields hotel serves very cheap cocktails until 9pm in their cafe/bar, open to the public, on the ground floor. It's not a romantic venue for a night out, but it is calm and pleasant with comfy chairs.

7. For cold beer, try Asahi Dry, a Japanese lager available in convenience stores and supermarkets, crisp flavour suitable for a hot summer's day.

Keeping cool in the heat of Taipei

If you are feeling too hot in Taipei, go to a department store: they have great air-con, and you can pass a little time strolling around. (See separate post on department stores). You can buy some clothes with thinner fabric while you are there. The cinema in Mitsukoshi store has fantastic aircon. Meanwhile:

1. Make fruit smoothies at home

Dragon fruit and papaya are currently in season. Pop them into your blender with some ice. Serve with a dollop of yoghurt. What a colour! Guaranteed to put a smile on your face!

Cultural note: MILK is commonly blended wih mango and papaya drinks in Taiwan. (I had it by accident, I admit it is delicious): if you don't want so much dairy, stick to fixing your own at home.

2. Go out for shaved ice or soybean pudding
A great Taiwanese summer cooler for sharing.  

No. 262-1, Dexing E Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

好奇營養豆花, 111台北市士林區德行東路262-1號

Or visit Yonkang Street (Dongmen MRT) for plenty of fashionable mango ice options.

3A. Go for bubble tea.

Drink in at chunshuitang (underneath the cinema box office at Mitsukoshi department store, this company claim to be the original inventors of bubble tea.

3B. Grab a take away from Milkshop (No. 82號, Dexing E Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 11147), a successful chain which originated in south Taiwan.

4. Cafe Rue

The Sicilian coffee (with lemon) is surprisingly acceptable and refreshing.
No. 2號, Lane 35, Section 6, Zhongshan N Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

See also their other branch Cafe Ruelle. Both do very tasty toasted sandwiches, possibly the best in Tianmu.

PRACTICAL TIPS for surviving the summer heat/humidity

Carry a small flannel/towel around with you for mopping the brow. Check out this novel kind of 'cooling towel' : soak it under the tap, rinse it out, fan it in the air and drape it around your neck, it does feel cool.
Avoid the heat of the midday sun. If possible, avoid being out and about between roughly 11am-3pm.
Take several showers a day.
Buy clothing with thinner fabric (inc. linen and sportswear).
You could do as the locals do (on condition of being immune to fashion considerations) and wear 'sleeves' (on top of your T-shirt/vest) to protect you from UV rays, especially if you are cycling around in the sun

Sunday, 14 August 2022

Public swimming pools in Tianmu

1. Keqiang Swimming Pool 克強公園游泳池

No. 2, Lane 55, Huangxi St, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

Currently undergoing renovation

2. Tianxi Swimming pool

No. 170, Alley 3, Lane 219, Section 7, Zhongshan N Rd, Beitou District, Taipei City, 112 Small open-air pool, Procedure: go in, hand $60NT to the somewhat surly staff, swim. The pool is probably intended for local residents in the huge residential complex. But it is often empty mid-week, and they seem happy to have occasional customers, rather than to keep it empty. There is no kind of ID check. Ideal for small children.

Favourite Cafes in / around Tianmu

(See also 'Cake shops', 'Toasted Sandwich') Here is a mixture of artisanal specialist places, everyday places suitable for laptopping, and comfortable places.

1. Changing cafe

Best. Coffee. Beans. In. Taipei. Don't start a conversation with the owner about beans unless you have 30 mins free! Sit in or takeaway.

112, Taipei City, Beitou District, Alley 17, Lane 114, Yuminliu Rd, 2-1號1樓

2. Old Hall Cafe

has very good coffee and is a good choice for buying beans. A few seats indoors. No. 9-2號, Yunong Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

3. Louisa is Taiwan's answer to Starbucks. The coffee is very decent quality. It's a very good choice if you want somewhere affordable to work on your laptop. Food is OK, but no-one comes for the food, it's more like an affordable community centre / hangout / shared workspace (not necessarily quiet, bring headphones). Packed at weekends. This new branch is huge and has cool architecture:

No. 2號, Lane 141, Section 7, Zhongshan N Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

This next branch has a great view from the top floor and is close-by to a great river walk toward Keqiang swimming pool and Zhishan MRT. No. 132號, Tianmu W Rd, Beitou District, Taipei City, 112

4. Lutetia (French style bakery and cafe) is run by a friendly local expat. If you are craving a European vibe, their first branch (turn left from TAS, walk 5 minutes down the main road) is your best bet Zhongshan Road Section 6 Number 442 Taipei 111台北市士林區中山北路六段442號. Quiche and salad set recommended. Second branch is opposite TES, peaceful.

5. Komeda's Coffee For a laptop session close to the MRT station at Zhishan, this Japanese chain is a very good solution, choose a table at the window in the front. Avoid at weekends due to atrocious service.

Zhongshan Road Section 6 Number 136, Taipei City, 111 中山北路六段136號

6. Supranormal Bakery Cafe

Fashionable, very small, expensive, busy

No. 39號, Section 7, Zhongshan N Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

7. Mellow Fields Hotel

No. 127號, Section 7, Zhongshan N Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

Walk into the reception area (photo) and straight through to the cafe (open to the public).

Service is friendly and good. Drinks are good, as is the thick toast with peanut butter or chocolate spread. Very good value, highest Cost Performance Ratio of all these options! You could get a takeaway coffee from their cafe and sit in this gorgeous reception, feel a spaciousness which is often denied us in the cities.

Mellowfields Hotel, cafe

8. One floor underneath the cinema at Mitsukoshi, just as you come off the escalator, is an unobtrusive cafe that does good iced latte, big sofas, good cakes and suitable for chatting or laptop sessions.

Places to chill out in Tianmu: introducing 3 Department Stores and cinema

All over Asia, people love department stores, not least for the air-conditioning! Taiwan's department stores are mostly Japanese. In Tianmu you have a choice of three: here are a few suggestions of how to while away a couple of hours while you cool down.

Sogo

The food court has a good view. Supermarket in the basement carries a decent range of international food and drink brands. Quality and price are both high. Pick up some clothing from Uniqlo upstairs, their range seems to be an unofficial uniform for blending in in Taiwan. If you have come from Europe, the fabric of your cotton clothing is likely much thicker than the local versions, so it's well worth investing in some thinner and cooler staples. Taiwan offers super-fashionable sportswear in very thin fabrics and Sogo is possibly the most stylish of the three stores.

Mitsukoshi

Two Mitsukoshi stores side by side. The one further from the traffic junction offers a cinema on the top floor, which shows Hollywood and Asian films (alas not Bollywood). Cinemas have THE BEST AIRCON in Taiwan! You may need to take a scarf or socks! If you want to buy a ticket, but don't speak Mandarin, you could show a photo of the movie poster, and the sales person can probably figure it out. They will ask you where you want to sit, the default position in Taiwan is for everyone to sit in a group in the centre of the cinema. You can request a seat at the side or back; usually there are plenty of seats free for seat-hopping. Unless its the first weekend of some Marvel blockbuster when it might be absolutely packed.

The restaurant just underneath the cinema ticket office is famous for bubble tea, and great beef noodle soup. Their menu shows english (in the world's smallest font). Go up to pay first when ordering. On the basement floor is a FNAC selling a few electronics.

The food court here is small and not impressive.

Takashimaya

Situated beside the baseball stadium. A gigantic aquarium display is popular weekend attraction for kids. The basement food court is probably the best of the three department stores' food courts, and the supermarket is very good.

Matthew Koumis 孔天喜 Reflections on the piano