Going out for a meal in Yongkang Street

If you want a pleasant walk with the other beautiful people, and to eat a decent meal, Yongkang Street is a great choice. It's a famous foodie area. It's even in the news as officially the 4th coolest street in the world!! [Taipei Times 31 Aug 22]. When I went with my wife last night, we saw at least three different foreign people, which is the highest number ever recorded in the wild. How to get there MRT to Dongmen, exit 5, straight out of the exit and immediately turn right with the crowds. Strategy: stroll, browse, graze, and dine. We ate here at Angel 5 Pizzeria. No. 18, Yongkang St, Da’an District, Taipei City, 106 It was stylish and clean, has a very cheerful vibe, customers of all ages. The spaghetti was delicious (better than the pizza). Dessert with ice cream set also very good.

Pianist Maria Yudina (1899-1970)

 

Maria Yudina has been enjoying more media attention of late. For an excellent and succinct account of Yudina's work, click here by Alexander Hanslick. Now a major new biography, written by Elizabeth Wilson, is published in hardback, and with a spiffing front cover.

This biography, completed during the pandemic years, is a great achievement. It chronicles in great detail the life and times of the Russian pianist noted for her uncompromising and heroic determination to perform, even in the face of a hostile political regime. Descriptions of her interactions with leading figures of her time, including Shostakovich, Pasternak, Stravinsky are interesting, although she seems to have alienated people more easily then attracting them. 

 

Of most interest to pianists will be accounts of her playing: listen for example here to Holy Fool, a transciption by Kamensky of Mussorgsky's Boris Godunov. 

 

 

 

 

What are the ingredients behind the persuasiveness of Yudina's playing? As Tolstoy said, there are only three important things in art: Sincerity, sincerity, and sincerity. Yudina had so little ego, she could tap the composer's own energy instead. She viewed music as a religious service. She held her own life to little account, and clearly performed as if her hair were on fire, as if it was the last day of her life. (Listen here to the opening of Beethoven's 32 Variations in C minor). She can be compared to Blanche Selva, also religious and ego-less, a severe figure on and off stage, a disciple of d'Indy. Also to Maryla Jonas, a war-time refugee, who left a gripping account of Handel Passacaglia here Of the three, Yudina had by far the greater concert exposure, although her performances were almost all in the USSR, and only gradually is her vast discography being released worldwide.

Supermarkets and fruit and veg markets in Tianmu

FOOD SHOPPING in Tianmu 

If you want to find food that reminds you of home, it can be a bit frustrating eating out, at the other side of the planet. The chocolate just isn't so chocolatey. Bacon, eggs, beans and toast? You'll be lucky! You might do better to buy the ingredients, and just learn to fix your fix at home. 

1. SUPERMARKETS
1. If you are missing muesli, chocolate spread and other western comfort foods:

Expat-friendly Mia C'bon. No. 3號, Tianmu W Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111. Despite the ridiculous name (previously Jasons), nice food. Sogo and Takashimaya department stores both have supermarkets in the basement, which include many foreign imports.

Carrefour, has many imports, expat friendly, two locations in Tianmu, see Googlemaps.

Hummus: Hagar's Kitchen Mediterranean Food is the only shop I found selling hummus. Tiny shop very close to Shidong market. No. 59號, Shidong Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City, 111

PX Mart (photo) is the most popular supermarket chain, and has a branch near you. Very good quality fresh fruit and veg. Jars, tins, packets of produce are written in Mandarin only, usually.

Excellent fresh fruit/veg at PX Mart

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. MARKETS At the famous Shidong market, in Tianmu, fresh food quality control is generally great, the price may be eye-watering. For a cheaper experience of buying fresh fruit and veg in the street markets, perhaps it needs a small amount of cunning. As a foreigner who doesn't speak good Mandarin, there is a small risk of being overcharged. I had good results at the market around Lane 8 Tianmu E Road. 

If you want to support the smaller sellers, and to enjoy possibly fresher produce, free from wasteful packaging, this  strategy worked for me.

My strategy for market shoppping

 

1. Try any stall that catches your eye, do a modest 'test' order (say 4 oranges, 4 tomatoes), see if the price/quality/friendliness seems reasonable. If not, try another. 

 

2. Meanwhile also visit a supermarket like PX Mart supermarket, so you can check / compare price and quality. If you still prefer the market... 

 

3. Once you have established a connection at the market (they remember your face), increase the size of your order. Go at the same time of day, because some stalls have different staff on shifts. 

 

4. Advanced: find two different market stalls you like. One day one will be closed, or sold out of the thing you want.

Where to take a walk in Tianmu

 Where to take a walk in Tianmu

Great views of Tianmu from Lane 219 Section 7 Zhongshan N Rd

 

Two very pleasant riverside walks (suitable for a stroll, or for jogging) 1. For a 60-minute leisurely walk, go beside the river that is adjacent to Lane 62, Tianmu West Road, stretching from Keqiang swimming pool to Tianmu West Rd, or join the river at any convenient point. Close to Cheng Hsin hospital, you are rewarded with a colourful light display at night. This walkway is slightly narrow, gets busy in the evenings, and is quiet during the day. About half of the walkers are wearing facemasks. 

Walking from Keqiang Swimming pool

Light display where the river joins Tianmu West Rd

Dancers practising at Shuangxi Riverside Park

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Shuangxi Riverside Park 111台北市士林區福林路 This stretch of the same river is less busy and is very highly recommended for walking or jogging. You may be rewarded by the sight of dancers practising their moves beside the river. 

A small word of warning about the magpies! In season, these birds make their nests in the trees, and can be fierce if you walk nearby, they even get physical with passersby. It should be no problem if you keep a little distance from the trees.

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3. Zhishanyan Cultural and Historical Park, and Huiji Temple 

Well worth a visit, allow a good hour. Walk up the many steps, for a great viewpoint overlooking Tianmu and Taipei. The impressive staircase is just beside Faust Pizza, at No. 20號, Section 2, Zhicheng Rd. 

Visit the lovely temple: etiquette is to enter by the door on the right side, and exit through the other door. Arranged on two floors, Huiji temple is dedicated to a Writer God, who is considered a patron saint of writers, and by extension anyone sitting exams, from civil servants to humble high-schoolers. Hence a steady stream of people making offerings of fruit and foods in the approach to an exam season. 

There is a public toilet outside the temple; and a pleasant wooden walkway around the hill. 

Rainbows above Tianmu Park

4. Tianmu Park (beside the river) Lane 141, Section 7, Zhongshan N Rd, Shilin District, is very pleasant. Good children's play area; basketball and badminton; with some hidden quiet corners to discover. Busy around 7-8.30am with Tai-chi practitioners / Tai-chi sword form / other groups exercising to the sound of noisy pop music. 

 

entrance to Tianmu Park

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5. For a GREAT viewpoint of the river, and a very short stroll, go the tiny park at No. 18, Lane 260, Xingyi Rd, Beitou District. 112台北市北投區行義路260巷18號You usually have the space to yourself, and feel re-energised by this special viewpoint, great Feng-shui!

Great Feng-shui here!

Toasted Sandwich places in Tianmu

1. Probably the best toasted sandwiches in Tianmu are here Cafe Rue